As could possibly be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has already established many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe along with a suit. But even though some of his tries to toughen up have been met with derision, the latest element of the Biebvolution is really bang about the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not everyone gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
To put it briefly: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is at. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess for men, but the one thing you would probably never call it is hipster – manicured beards needs to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore for the teen awards, has been integral towards the rise in popularity of denim and also jeans that are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look that makes parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers that were roughly stop on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing going on; close up, the holes during these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – will there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have got a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is This Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was across just about the most talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was held in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that have been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. Most of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); even show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is just set to carry on: following the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another of the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label continues to be backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
In reality, if everything else fails, the real key to the look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, because it ticks the 1990s box – and the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the contrary of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear in the past couple of years. Not only that, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an attempt but suggests you are aware what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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